Slabbing

The single most common fault we see in other people’s patios is slabs laid on five dabs of mortar. It is quicker and it uses less material, but it leaves voids underneath. Water gets in, freezes, and the slab cracks or rocks — usually within a few winters.

We lay every slab on a full wet bed with a slurry primer painted onto the back. It takes longer and costs more in materials. It is also the only way to do it properly, so it is the only way we do it.

Indian sandstone is the value option and still looks superb — riven surface, warm tones, very forgiving underfoot.

Porcelain costs more but barely marks, resists algae, and holds its colour. If you want a crisp, contemporary patio that stays looking new with almost no upkeep, it is hard to beat.

Granite and limestone sit in between, and both take a sawn edge beautifully for a very clean, tight-jointed finish.

A patio has to shed water away from the building, and it has to sit at least 150mm below the damp proof course. Getting those two things right at the same time is most of the skill in the job.

Where levels are tight we will build in a drainage channel or an aco drain rather than compromise the falls. Where the garden slopes we will set out steps and retaining walls so the finished patio reads as one deliberate level rather than a series of patches.

We use a brush-in jointing compound on most patios — it stays flexible, resists frost and does not stain the stone the way wet cement pointing can. For traditional properties where a mortar joint suits the look better, we will hand point it.